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Keller Excellence (Mar 2023)

Citrus zests, lavender, struck flint and crushed stone greet the nose, enticing a first sip that practically explodes in the mouth with its intense resonance and grip. Yet there is a certain sense of buoyancy and an openness to subtlety, as bittersweet floral perfume and nuttiness add to the wine’s compulsive appeal. The finish is…

Keller Excellence (Mar 2023)

Citrus zests, lavender, struck flint and crushed stone greet the nose, enticing a first sip that practically explodes in the mouth with its intense resonance and grip. Yet there is a certain sense of buoyancy and an openness to subtlety, as bittersweet floral perfume and nuttiness add to the wine’s compulsive appeal. The finish is…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1989 Château Margaux is old school on the nose with dark berry fruit, saddle leather, iodine and a touch of wild mint. It’s much more loose-knit than the 1990, which I personally prefer. The palate is well balanced with a sweet entry, not amazingly complex yet refined and delicate in the style of, say,…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2009 Brane-Cantenac was picked from September 22 to October 9 with a modest 13.4° alcohol. This has long been a great Margaux. It is very delineated and yet very generous on the bravura bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone, cedar and a touch of mint. The palate is fresh and bursting with energy right…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good deep red. Pretty cassis and floral aromas. Silky, subtle and fresh, with sound acidity framing the pungent dark berry and lightly herbal flavors. Very nicely balanced wine with an elegant finish featuring suave tannins, an intriguing saline quality and subtle persistence.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 53% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 7% cabernet franc; 13.2% alcohol; ph 3.87; IPT 75; 37% selection) Aromas of spicy plum, stony minerals and herbs are currently a bit subdued. Suave and fine-grained, with a light touch to its rather wild flavors of blackcurrant, licorice, minerals and violet. Finishes with easygoing tannins…