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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full red-ruby color. Captivating aromas of cassis, cherry, tobacco, mocha, coffee and leather, with a complicating element of dried oregano and thyme. At once silky and penetrating in the mouth, with very firm acids for the vintage giving shape and thrust to the dense flavors of currant, tobacco and iodine. Finishes with broad, dusty tannins…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2012 Cristal is another absolutely stellar wine this flight of recent releases. Rich, vinous and beautifully textured, the 2012 has been nothing short of magnificent on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. In the glass, the 2012 is radiant and luscious, yet it possesses remarkable transparency and striking aromatic depth. Light…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er Cru offers a lot of smoky bacon on the nose, which is quite reduced and possibly has some brettanomyces issues, occluding the terroir. The almost mouth-puckering palate follows suit with drying tannins. Severe and lacking fruit on the finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

So far I have tasted two bottles of the 2011 Comtes de Champagne. The first was strongly vegetal, with angular contours and virtually no fruit; the second was unyielding and compact, with no mid-palate and no finish to speak of. To say the 2011 is far off the mark would be a massive understatement. Perhaps,…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2011 Comtes de Champagne remains a challenging wine. Short, compact and lacking in complexity, the 2011 just doesn’t have that much to offer. On a more positive note, there’s good freshness and fewer of the vegetal notes I saw a few years ago. This is the best showing yet for the 2011.

Cellar Favorite: 2010 Haut-Bailly (Jun 2020)

Still fairly youthful in appearance with light bricking on the rim, the 2010 Haut-Bailly has an intoxicating nose that is in full flight: a mélange of red and black fruit, loam, truffle, just a touch of powdered dark chocolate and then gaminess developing with aeration. The aromatics have a slightly melted quality that I associate…