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1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Deep ruby-red. Dark berries, roasted nuts, mocha, espresso and bitter chocolate on the nose. Very concentrated and bright, with the flavors framed by firm tannic spine. Showing a bit more grip today than the ’99, but the ’99 may have more sweetness and density and possesses the stuffing to benefit from the elevage.

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Full-blown aromas of caramel, toffee, honey, white chocolate and damp earth; slightly Tokaj-like. Hugely concentrated and layered in the mouth; extraordinary sweetness cut by harmonious acidity. As with the best vintages of Yquem, the finish goes on for a minute or more. Stains, and stuns, the palate. A huge wine, surprisingly extravagant on the nose…

Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)

(95% merlot and 5% cabernet franc; 3.72 pH; IPT 71; 13.5% alcohol): Bright ruby-red with a hint of garnet at the rim. Knockout deep, nuanced nose of blackcurrant, red cherry, violets and truffle. Supple, broad and full in the mouth, with smoky blackberry, caramel and spicy pepper flavors. The finish is long and silky, with…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Trotanoy, poured from magnum, is ferociously backward on the nose. With black cherries, raspberry coulis, truffle and touches of iodine with aeration, this threatens to overwhelm the senses. The palate is a beast: huge concentration, uncompromising with massive weight; this is a Pomerol that says, “Bugger off and come back in a decade.”…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep medium ruby. Ineffable, vibrant aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, minerals, violet, bitter chocolate and mint. Dense, rich and mouthfilling, but still a bit youthfully monolithic. Subtle notes of torrefaction and mint add complexity to the dark berry flavors. A wine of great finesse and class, likely to develop very slowly in bottle. Drink between…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Montrose is spectacular. Bright, perfumed and vertically explosive, the 2005 possesses remarkable energy right out of the gate. In 2005, Montrose doesn’t quite have the heft that it can, but that actually works to its advantage. Readers will find a wine that marries elegance with power so well. Gravel, dried herb, lavender and…