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2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is a potent, tightly wound Pauillac that will need a number of years to come together. Driving in its intensity, with searing tannins, the 2021 comes across as a bit severe today, with less of the charm and sensuality that is such a Mouton signature. That said, I was not thrilled…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild marks a return to the classic style of this First Growth after three hot vintages. Unsurprisingly, the Cabernet Sauvignon takes control and expresses cigar smoke and graphite aromas. This is very well defined, yet examining the wine over several minutes, I was searching in vain for that “magic touch” exuded in…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is gorgeous, just as it was en primeur. A wine of stature and vertical build, the 2021 is wonderfully poised from the outset. Beams of tannin add to an impression of explosive lift. Touches of mocha, spice, new leather, cedar and blood orange begin to emerge with a bit of time…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Mouton-Rothschild, matured in 100% new oak for 18 months, has a “serious” Cabernet-driven bouquet, just as it had out of barrel. Graphite-infused black fruit mixes with tobacco and touches of incense, the latter a feature that I did not notice previously. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. Silky smooth in texture, it…

1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)

Good full ruby. Lightly floral aromas of blackcurrant, maple syrup, mocha, espresso and fresh herbs. Lush and medium-sweet, with very good intensity, bright acidity and a deep, tight core of fruit. Subtle and juicy rather than unctuous or powerful, and impeccably balanced. Long, youthfully aggressive finish features a note of dark chocolate and sneaky persistence….

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

Tasted blind, the 2012 Lafite-Rothschild is a vintage I have not tasted for several years. It has a well-defined nose with slightly leafy black fruit, pencil shavings and cedar. It does not quite deliver the precision of the 2012 Latour tasted alongside, but it is distinctly “Lafite”. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, well…