Archives: Product Reviews

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2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Medium red. Expressive nose offers redcurrant, plum, mocha and minerals. Supple, sweet and sexy, with an almost liqueur-like cherry flavor complicated by a whiff of minerality. Finishes with a sweet dusting of tannins and good length.

2001 and 2000 White Burgundies (Sep 2002)

Reticent nose hints at apple, butter and oak. A step up in intensity and structure from the Meursault. Steely apple and pear flavors are nicely shaped by sound acidity. Good firm, persistent, youthful village wine.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Light bronze color. Mature Champagne notes of brown butter, walnut, apple cider and maple syrup on the nose, along with fresher pear and mineral nuances. Rich, full-bodied and concentrated; a rather powerfully structured Champagne with noteworthy density and firm acidity. Considering the mature flavors, this wine is fresh and focused in the middle palate. Seems…

Santa Barbara: Present & Future (Sep 2019)

Sine Qua Non’s 2016 Grenache Dirt Vernacular is a classic Sine Qua Non wine. Rich, powerful and aromatically deep, the 2016 has so much to offer. A rush of sweet dark cherry, plum, mocha, licorice, lavender and spice builds in an opulent, flamboyant wine that hits all the right notes. Mourvèdre, Touriga Nacional and Petite…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Inky ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, potpourri, exotic spices and incense, all sharpened by a vibrant mineral topnote. Stains the palate with concentrated, sharply focused blackberry, bitter cherry, violet pastille and fruitcake flavors that deftly blend power and delicacy. Shows superb clarity and resonating florality on a strikingly long,…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Mouton-Rothschild has always been a rather disappointing First Growth, and despite the perfect provenance of this ex-château bottle, its juxtaposition against the 1996 does it no favors. It has an earthy, loose-knit, tobacco-stained bouquet that never clicks out of second gear. The palate is similar, reasonably well balanced but lacking cohesion and, in…