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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(81% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, and 9% merlot; pH 3.69; IPT 60; 12.2% alcohol; 76% new oak; a 79% selection): Bright red with a pale rim. Knockout nose of aromatic herbs, strawberry, sweet spices and acacia flower; yet another wine strongly marked by its cabernet franc presence. Fresh and vibrant, this absolutely dances on…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Knockout smoky nose of cedar, leather, earth, truffle and game. Then rather tightly coiled and far less pliant than the nose would suggest. Strong acids contribute to this wine rather powerful structure. But I don’t find the flesh shown by the best wines from this vintage. Finishes quite firm, youthfully backward and…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Palmer has vied with the 1983 as the highlight of the decade, so it is fascinating to revisit it at 30 years old. It has a wonderful bouquet of degraded red berry fruit, singed leather and hints of game and mint, beautifully defined and still so fresh, yet undeniably old-school in style. The…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Léoville Barton has a lovely nose of brambly black fruit, melted tar, tobacco leaf and undergrowth, very traditional in style but after three decades, remaining fresher and more vibrant than many of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied and possesses more fruit and greater density than the Langoa-Barton. I love the acidity here…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Very deep purple-ruby. Floral aromas of blueberry, blackcurrant and violet. The palate offers lovely balance, with pure black fruit flavors in perfect harmony with fine acids and smooth tannins. Finishes long and pure, with a late mineral surge. Not the last word in concentration but a gorgeous, well-made wine.

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Bright ruby. Sexy, ripe nose combines cassis, Cuban cigar tobacco, licorice and minerals. Sweet, tactile and intense, with concentrated, sharply delineated flavors of dark fruits and minerals. Densely packed, ripe and deep. Offers a lovely combination of silky texture, firm structure and the aromatic lift and nuance of the vintage’s best examples. Should age gracefully…