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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has an even more complex bouquet than the Chambertin – a quite profound, quite riveting cornucopia of red berry fruit, sous-bois and crushed stone all delivered with breathtaking delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, perhaps more saline than the Chambertin, wonderful acidity with real depth and structure…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a mineral-driven bouquet with dark berry fruit, sous-bois and just a touch of dessicated orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine acidity. Is it the most complex Lavaux? Maybe not, though it has an attractive juiciness mixed with sapidity that keeps you coming…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru has a touch of reduction but that soon dissipated to reveal intense black and red fruit, half and half really, crushed rock (sea cave), a very subtle marine influence the develops with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh, closing in a little on the finish…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a fragrant bouquet of raspberry and veins of blue fruit, gaining intensity with time. The palate is well balanced with light tannins but plenty of fruit and just a touch of pepperiness on the finish.

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

Beychevelle has been on a roll, especially these last few years. I expected quite a bit more from the 2019, but the two bottles I have tasted so far have been marked by an awkward combination of super-ripe fruit, vegetal notes and hard, aggressive contours.

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Beychevelle presents a perfumed nose of blackberry, wilted rose petals, incense and a touch of violet that ebbs with aeration. Elegant, poised and focused, this is a succinct and quite complex Saint-Julien. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and wonderful depth, still retaining the discreet marine influence but showing a little more…