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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Nose at once subtle and flamboyant, with slightly roasted aromas of currant, cedar, lead pencil and minerals. Large-scaled, sweet and rich, with utterly primary fruit suggesting a long future ahead of it. Tasted next to the ’89, this was a much more massive and somewhat softer wine. Very long on the finish,…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep ruby-red. Aromas of cherry, mocha, milk chocolate and iron. Chewy and on the dry side but stuffed with flavors of cherry, plum, iron, tobacco and mocha. This has fat and sweetness for the year, along with a suggestion of herbs. Finishes with dusty tannins and moderate lift.

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin shows excellent suppleness in its round fruit. This is a generous, open style with good balance, even if the wine lacks the sheer excitement of the best selections here. Bright red fruits and flowers inform the open, accessible finish. The Charmes is made from purchased wine.

2009 Red Burgundy (Jan 2011)

Medium red. Lovely lift to the aromas of minerals, red rose, violet, pepper and menthol. Sweet and suave but not especially complex. In a rather feminine style, finishing with very smooth tannins, a note of caramel and very good floral persistence. This is from purchased wine but Lardiere notes that the grower has extended his…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a lovely bouquet that is wonderfully delineated and focused, presenting a quite intense mixture of red and black fruit tinged with sous-bois and light black truffle aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with bold tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Smooth in texture, it exhibits dark chocolate and…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Brane-Cantenac, which I have tasted several times, retains those tropes of warm gravel and black truffle on the nose, although in this bottle I notice a little more red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, still quite strict and classic in style, featuring cedar and tobacco and maybe a little greenness toward the finish,…