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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Volnay Les Caillerets 1er Cru includes an additional 0.23-hectare adjoining parcel of old vines purchased in 2013 that represents a 50% increase in acreage. It has a more reticent bouquet compared to its siblings, demanding coaxing from the glass to revealing morello cherry, raspberry preserve and rose petal aromas. Hints of blood orange…

2018 & 2019 Barbaresco Take Center Stage (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barbaresco Vigneto Starderi is a powerful, structured wine. Readers will have to be patient with the 2018, as it is a mere infant. Dried cherry, mint, spice, rose petal, kirsch and sweet red cherry fill out the layers nicely as the Starderi shows off its characteristic volume. Give this a few years to…

2018 & 2019 Barbaresco Take Center Stage (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barbaresco Vigneto Valeirano is especially fine. As always, the Valeirano is a classically austere Barbaresco, but that side of its personality is less evident in 2018 than it has been in the past, its mid-weight structure notwithstanding. All the elements are so nicely balanced.

Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond (Feb 2023)

The 2015 Colore wafts up from the glass with masses of black cherry and autumnal spices complemented by sweet lavender. This is pure elegance, silky, nearly creamy, with zesty acidity and a pleasant inner sweetness offset by inner earth and floral tones. It leaves a staining of primary concentration contrasted by lingering sour citrus and…

Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond (Feb 2023)

The 2016 Colore is dark and brooding in the glass, slowly blossoming with a wave of dried black cherries, sage, cinnamon and crushed ashen stone. It washes across the palate with the silkiest textures imaginable, neatly balanced by brisk acidity, which also helps to enliven its core of tart red and black fruits. This finishes…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Larcis Ducasse is one of the real overachievers of the vintage. Richness and classicism meld together in a Saint-Émilion that dazzles from the very first taste. Rich dark fruit, mocha, licorice, espresso and leather all open in the glass. Time brings out bright acids and that firm spice of Larcis tannin. More than…