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2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(Jadot buys must and grapes from three different sources, all on the Puligny side of the appellation): Healthy bright yellow. Fresher on the nose than the Bienvenue, offering scents of acacia flower, coconutty oak and caramel; quite open today owing to lower free sulfur at bottling. Concentrated and flavorful if a bit warm, with peach,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Latour is a vintage that I have not encountered for four or five years. It has a pH of 3.80 and a yield of 38hl/ha, representing 58% of the total crop. Interestingly, this includes 14% vin de presse compared to the 9 to 10% used nowadays. It has a classic Latour bouquet of…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full red-ruby. High-pitched aromas of red- and blackcurrant, minerals and leather. Wonderfully harmonious in the mouth, with compelling sweetness of fruit but also superb grip. A lush, rich wine that already displays impressive inner-mouth perfume. Finishes with broad, essentially gentle tannins. Doesn’t quite possess the grip or thrust of the ’01, but this is wine-of-the-vintage…

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2000)

Ruby-red. Vinous, captivating aromas of blackberry, wild plum, currant, roast coffee and mocha, with subtle rather than overwhelming evidence of American oak. Concentrated, harmonious and quite suave; at once velvety and nicely delineated thanks to ripe, well-integrated acidity. Finishes with substantial ripe tannins and excellent length.

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1997 Lafleur is a rather disappointing wine, one of the few under the tenure of Jacques and Sylvie Guinaudeau. Here, the 1997 is shown up by the 1998 and 1999, its shortcomings clear to see. It retains that earthy, rather loose-knit bouquet tinged with brine and decayed leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with rustic,…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

More perfumed, riper aroma of cherry, iodine and mint. Sweeter and suppler in the mouth, with a creamy texture for the year. Nice balance of flesh and spine. Betrays a slight tart edge on the aftertaste but this has subtle persistence. Slow-building, slightly tough tannins.