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1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium ruby-red. Blackberry, shoe polish, licorice and green herbs on the nose; currently showing its cabernet franc component. Rather closed in the mouth and not now especially expressive. Seems a bit heavy. Finishes firmly tannic and slightly dry. Perhaps in an awkward phase.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Clerc Milon has a clean and pure bouquet: perfumed, rose-petal tinged blackberry and raspberry fruit intermixed with sage, sandalwood and a hint of the estuary (mudflats and kelp). The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, well judged acidity, good structure and with plenty of tobacco and forest floor notes on the finish. There…

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

The 2015 Citran is hearty and a bit rough around the edges, with good fruit intensity but four-square, chunky tannins that give the wine its distinctly rustic personality.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Cheval Blanc has been a lauded wine ever since release. I have often, quite controversially felt that it never quite matched its startling performances in its first ten years, though it remains and excellent wine. Now at 20-years old it offers opulent, high-toned scents of maraschino cherry, iodine, crème de cassis, dried blood…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, bright medium ruby. Nose shows an almost liqueur-like ripeness, along with notes of bitter chocolate and menthol; a great expression of ripe but youthfully unevolved cabernet franc. Extremely dense and pure but still quite tight and showing a minty austerity. Wonderful acids give the wine superb clarity of flavor. This will require another decade…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(a blend of 56% merlot and 44% cabernet franc; 13% alcohol; 32 h/h): Bright ruby. Ripe, intensely pure black cherry, blackcurrant, floral and milk chocolate aromas. Enters silky and suave, with rich red cherry and blackcurrant flavors that give the middle palate a fruit cocktail quality. Almost more Pomerol than Saint-Emilion here, with a rich,…