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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Medium red. Musky aromas of chocolate and mint, with a slightly leafy quality. Sweet but reticent, showing a fine-grained texture but rather medicinal, bound-up flavors. Finishes with a substantial dusting of tannins. The most Barolo-like of these 2007s and in need of patience.

Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

The Clos des Ducs Lutte Raisonnée, made from vines that were treated with phytosanitary products against oidium and mildew in spring: Aromas of strawberry, rose petal, smoke, leather and earth became increasingly perfumed with air. Intensely flavored and fresh; not especially fleshy but really stands out for its inner-mouth perfumed lift and dominant strawberry and…

Marquis d’Angerville: Volnay Clos des Ducs 1920-2010 (Dec 2016)

Harvested 5-8th September. A very accessible Ducs. Much lighter and less dense than the 2010 or 2009, but also much more approachable. Guillaume d’Angerville calls it “tender.” I call it useful – a wine to drink while waiting for the ‘05 and the ‘99 to come around. The Ducs minerality is here, along with enough…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good deep, bright red. Very reduced nose is currently blocking the wine’s primary fruits. Fatter but initially less sweet than the Clos de Vouget, with a bit of leathery funk to its dark berry, earth and iodine flavors. Began quite unforthcoming if rather suave, but gained significantly in sweetness and thickness with aeration. This will…

The Best New Wines from Spain (Nov 2001)

Full medium ruby. Sexy, high-pitched aromas of cassis, plum, violet, minerals and clove oil. Wonderfully sweet and lush but with superb grip and vinosity, thanks to ripe, harmonious acidity. Already shows explosive inner-mouth flavors of dark berries, minerals and bitter chocolate. Finishes with superb length and sweetness. Sure to be the best vintage for Pingus…

1997 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2002)

Intense garnet with ruby reflections. Opens with wonderfully sweet tobacco scents and spicy cedar. In the mouth there are nicely delineated, fresh flavors of anise, mocha and roasted coffee, the whole supported by very soft tannins, and the rather smoky close conveying an essence of raspberry. Although there are no hard edges in this sleek…