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Bordeaux 2023 in Bottle: Coming Around Again

The 2023 Les Champs Libres has a well-defined bouquet, discreet at first, like the Grand Village Blanc, touches of apple blossom, wet limestone and touches of lemon thyme. The palate is well-balanced with a crisp line of acidity, citrus-fresh with a dab of stem ginger toward the finish. Utterly delicious.

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 d’Yquem is rich, honeyed and voluptuous in the glass, but never excessively heavy. Crème brulee, candied lemon, apricot jam, orange marmalade, sweet spices and almond paste meld together in a Sauternes built on class and finesse What a gorgeous wine this is.

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(70% semillon and 30% sauvignon blanc; 13.1% alcohol and 140 g/l residual sugar; total acidity of almost 6 g/l): Luminous medium yellow-gold. Almost Germanic in its perfumed, bright aromas of tangerine, grapefruit, peach, lemon, lichee and ginger. Lush but very fresh, with bracing limey acidity giving sharp definition to the complex flavors of honey, ginger,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Yquem is consistent with previous encounters. It has a fresh nose thanks to the contribution of the 30% Sauvignon Blanc, not as complex as other vintages, yet delineated with lemon rind and lychee hints bubbling up with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a keen line of acidity, pure and…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Léoville Barton is so impressive. Rich and heady in the glass, the 2019 offers up a beguiling mix of dark fruit intermingled with scents to tobacco, gravel, pencil shavings, leather, licorice, scorched earth and cloves. Today, Léoville Barton is decidedly virile, imposing and in need of cellaring. It is also hugely impressive. Léoville…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Latour à Pomerol has retained its attractive, discreet nose of well-defined blackberry, wild strawberry, sage and iodine aromas, though you have to coax them out. The palate has improved since I tasted the barrel sample, but I still have reservations. This is dense, grippy and very assertive, but what is missing is a…