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The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Pale yellow. Sexy noble reduction to the musky aromas of lemon zest, flinty minerals, iodine and ginger. Pliant and thick but with buns of steel; powerful acidity and strong salinity frame and intensify the sappy flavors of lemon, grapefruit and iodiney minerality. In the ripest years, this wine can get a bit exotic but this…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Château Margaux is adorned with a captivating, very floral crushed violet bouquet that blossoms in the glass. Perhaps it has a little more sophistication than the ’82 Mouton. This bottle leans a little more towards red than black fruit. Stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with lace-like tannins, very poised and focused, fresh…

2016 Barolo, Part 2 & Late Releases (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Barolo Cerretta is an incredibly elegant wine, so much so that opening a bottle now is far from a crime. That may sound heretical, but it’s a good example of how finessed young Barolo can be when it gets the kind of care it has here. It’s also important to note that while…

Keller Excellence (Mar 2023)

With basil, gentian, juniper berry, coriander seed, white peach and lime, this is another Keller Riesling of its vintage whose ravishing aromatic display is distillate-like in its forcefulness and high-toned aura. The feel is flatteringly glossy, and the inner-mouth impression of implosive density as well as underlying stoniness prove entirely compatible with a sense of…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru is a powerhouse. Dark, rich and explosive, the 2019 packs a huge punch. There is plenty of intensity in the blue/purplish-tinged fruit. The domaine’s Echézeaux is often a charmer, but that is not the case here, at least not today. At times, the 2019 feels a bit heavy. It will…

Better Than Water: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2019 in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Echézeaux was picked on 22 and 23 of September at 23hL/ha. Conspicuously deeper in colour than the Corton, this has a fuller bouquet with red cherries, raspberry coulis, traces of tobacco and autumn leaves. The palate is quite succulent on the entry, candid red fruit (raspberry and wild strawberry), hints of marmalade and…