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2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Léoville-Barton marries the richness of the vintage with the classically restrained style that is so typical of Léoville-Barton. Graphite, licorice and dark spice are all laced throughout a core of inky dark fruit. The 2020 is powerful and linear, with tons of depth lying in reserve, just waiting to emerge. I won't be…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

In some ways, the 2020 Léoville Barton has become more serious than when I encountered it from barrel. It’s lost its puppy fat and delivers quite intense blackberry, blueberry and incense aromas, a little oak to be assimilated yet still very focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a “coolness” on the entry, taut yet deep…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Léoville Barton was picked September 15–16 and matured in 70% new oak. It is one of the best vintages that I have encountered in barrel. Wow! This shoots from the glass with beautifully defined black fruit, mineral-rich aromas, pixelated with laser-like focus. The palate is medium-bodied with chiseled tannins, a perfect line of…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Léoville-Barton is a wine of notable intensity, but all of that power is directed inward. Tightly coiled and vibrant, the Léoville-Barton is going to need time to be ready, but that is to be expected. There is terrific energy here, if not the volume of the preceding three vintages. That’s not a problem.

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Léoville-Barton was picked from 27 September until 7 October, matured in 60% new oak. The alcohol is 13.12%. It has a clean and pure bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, cedar and hints of shucked oyster shell: focused and very well delineated, classic in style. The palate has a smooth and cohesive entry, very well-knit…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Medium color. Plums and cedary, smoky oak on the nose; slight heat. Smooth texture but on the lean side; acidity is modest but sticks out because there’s limited buffering extract. Slightly tart finish.