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Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru is airy and weightless in feel. A wine that speaks in hushed tones, the Butteaux is marked by soaring aromatics, vertical lift and a decidedly ethereal personality. Crushed rocks, lime, white pepper and chalk give the Butteaux its striking upper register that is very nicely complemented by saline underpinnings…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Musigny Grand Cru offers compelling estuarine and oyster shell scents on a complex, extremely well focused nose. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannin, pure blackberry and raspberry fruit, and enthralling mineralité that seems to blossom toward the aristocratic finish. This is a fabulous wine, a Musigny flirting with perfection – and…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright red-ruby. Spectacular nose combines boysenberry, blackberry, licorice and spice lifted by an alluring lavender high note. Wonderfully smooth but a bit youthfully tight, showing outstanding inner-mouth tension and a light touch to its vibrant flavors of dark fruits, minerals and spices. The slowly mounting finish features utterly suave, horizontal tannins and a whiplash of…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a powerful, almost dramatic bouquet with hints of peppermint and liquorice complementing the citrus fruit. Layers of Japanese yuzu and blood orange burst from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, very saline, quite intense with blood orange, apricot, hints of…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2007 Cristal is pretty reticent in this tasting. Then again, it is sandwiched between two great vintages. It is the product of a freakishly early year and an August harvest, rare at the time but increasingly within normal parameters today. The 2007 is 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay, which is to say a…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 2016 Warre’s Vintage Port was picked from 19 September, the harvest took 10 days longer than usual in order to gain optimal ripeness. It has a tightly-wound but compelling bouquet with intense black fruit laced with clove, nutmeg and touches of smoke. This is a Warre’s with great precision and detail. The palate is…