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Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2000 Château Margaux remains one of the standouts of the millennial year. This bottle is consistent with the previous example. It’s deep in color. The aromatics are intense and backward, opening with blackberry, crushed violet and pencil box scents with time, but there remains a sense of beguiling aloofness, as if you are so…

The Best New Non-Vintage Champagnes (Dec 2012)

(100% chardonnay grown in Le Mesnil, Avize and Villers-Marmery; disgorged October 12, 2011; LA109D29111): Bright yellow-gold. A heady, complex bouquet evokes dried citrus fruits, quince, white flowers and iodine, with a hint of truffle in the background. Shows both power and finesse, offering lively Meyer lemon, orange pith and fresh fig flavors. The floral quality…

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

White truffle, herbs, orange blossom and spices are some of the notes that take shape in the 2005 Amour de Deutz. There is good nuance in the glass, but the 2005 is also a bit forward, with slight hints of greenness and oxidation, which along with its mid-weight structure, suggest it is best enjoyed sooner…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is consistent with the bottle shown at the Hong Kong vertical. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a pencil box of graphite. The adjective I use whilst writing this note is that the aromas are cool. Perhaps given its provenance, this is one of the most backward bottles of…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep ruby, by far the darkest of these vintages. Knockout nose of great precision: cassis, black cherry, lead pencil, licorice, dried herbs and mint. Densely packed and extremely unevolved; a powerfully structured wine with uncanny precision and penetration. Finishes with powerful, firm tannins and exceptional mounting persistence. An infant, but a great Northern Medoc…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is the strongest wine from the First Growth in that decade. This bottle, served blind and ex-château in Bordeaux, is so precociously backward that I estimate it to be half its age. Blackberry, cedar and graphite are here as usual, though this bottle has even more intensity than the one served at…