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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots has quite a potent bouquet, orchard fruit and liquorice scents, forward and generous. The palate is well balanced although it just lacks the killer tension and mineral drive of Lamy’s best cuvées this year.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(75% new oak; 4.4 grams per liter acidity; from vines in Aloxe, which Boillot picked last in 2016 before starting on Pinot Noir): Bright light-medium yellow. Subtly complex, musky aromas of peach, caraway seed, nutmeg, mace and hazelnutty lees. At once densely packed and penetrating, with a stony citric pungency giving precision to the seamless…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Saint-Aubin La Princée has a crisp, minerally bouquet with wet limestone intermixed with Granny Smith aromas. It has fine delineation. The palate is taut on the entry, with a dab of spice and modest weight with plenty of ginger on the finish. It just needs a little more control and precision.

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Saint-Aubin La Princée, half the normal crop, has a taut, linear, Granny Smith and petrichor-scented bouquet. The palate is balanced with modest weight – not a complex Saint-Aubin and missing a little mineralité on the finish. Drink over the next 3-5 years.

Made of Titanium: 2022 Burgfest Whites

The 2022 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru has an attractive, slightly chalky nose; light apple blossom scents intermix with wet limestone. A marine influence becomes more prominent with aeration and lends more dimension. The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, a pretty if relatively simple Saint-Aubin with a keen line…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 1er Cru is another example of a reduced white burgundy, although it is not as heavy as Bachelet’s Champlots. It does, however, miss a bit of complexity and personality. The palate is quite sharp on the entry with pointed citric acidity that does not quite gel with the…