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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy Additions (Jan 2021)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, one of Boillot’s strongest wines, has a delightful bouquet with well-defined scents of dried honey, hazelnut and crushed rock, quite Meursault-like in style. The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, not amazingly complex overall, yet I admire its tension and length, with quite a persistent spicy aftertaste….

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard Haut Densité 1er Cru, from vines planted at 20,000 per hectare, has the most backward and austere nose of Lamy’s whites at this stage. The palate is well-balanced with a malic entry and fine depth. Quite a “serious” Saint-Aubin that comes across more like a Puligny in style. Good…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Focus on Grands-Échézeaux and Richebourg (Jul 2014)

A dark, brooding wine, the 1999 Grands-Échézeaux is simply sensational. Firm tannins provide the backbone in an intensely perfumed, savory Burgundy loaded with class and nuance. Smoke, tar, leather and herbs open up in a mysterious, intensely perfumed Burgundy that has so much still to say. The broad, textured finish makes it impossible to resist…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Saturated ruby-red. Highly nuanced nose combines raspberry, redcurrant, plum, violet, rose petal, pepper, oak spice and tobacco. Sweet, fat, round and spicy, but with lovely vinosity. Quite backward after the Echezeaux. A wine with impressive density and verve, long and subtle on the back end.

Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The first bottle was the aforementioned 1999 Grands-Echézeaux from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which our host had opened the previous night at another dinner, so it was just ‘to see’. You could tell it was a great wine. However, it wasn’t an instance whereby a wine was better the second day, and it was too…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru has a reductive bouquet that, at the moment, occludes the terroir expression and mineralité. But I feel there is a complex and involving wine underneath, and it just needs bottle age. The palate is well-balanced, with a tangy entry and fine acidity. It’s peppery in style…