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Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Smith Haut-Lafitte has an opulent, lavish bouquet with layers of black cherry, Christmas cake, dark chocolate and vanilla. This wants to make an impression. The palate is very seductive, featuring lush red berry fruit, brown spices and saturated tannins. Some new oak is evident on the finish, but that will be subsumed with…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Smith Haut Lafitte has a very succinct and refined bouquet, with pure blackberry, bilberry, pressed flowers and undergrowth scents that are beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied, with svelte tannins, exquisite balance and an edgy, precise minerally finish. The class of this Pessac-Léognan shines through. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting.

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc; 27 hl/ha; 100% new oak) Inky-purple color. Brooding, complex aromas of blueberry juice, air-dried plum and balsamic vinegar, with a touch of dusty minerality. Sweet and massive on entry, this conveys a serious sense of huge power but also impeccable balance to its black fruit and sweet spice flavors….

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2008 Ausone has a dark hue with just slight aging on the rim. It has an introspective nose: black fruit, melted tar, cracked black pepper and a background of dried blood/meaty scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins; it’s a little austere for Ausone and is strict and drier than more benevolent vintages….

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

Good full, bright yellow. Honey and marzipan on the rather stunted nose. Then supersweet, dense and tactile, but with the ripe pineapple and marzipan flavors currently muted by sulfur dioxide. Shows the power of the vintage but will need time to express itself.

Vinous Table: Private Dinner at Wheeler Farms, Saint Helena, CA (Feb 2023)

The 2010 La Conseillante is stellar. Dense and extracted, the 2010 reflects the style of a decade ago, but that is merely an observation and not a complaint. Inky purplish fruit, lavender, spice, mocha and a kiss of French oak infuse the palate with remarkable depth.