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This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru, which had recently been bottled, has a tightly wound but intense bouquet that responds to aeration. The fruit appears a little darker than the 2015 with just a touch of pressed iris coming through. The palate is well balanced with a fresh, quite grippy entry. I admire the…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a beautifully defined nose, fresh as a daisy, yet unapologetically primal, requiring another 10-15 years to display its terroir. Everything is here on the palate: fine-boned tannins, layers of dark cherry and cassis fruit with underlying raspberry notes. It feels finely chiseled with just the right amount of opulence…

Vinous Table: Where Do I Eat In Burgundy? (Jan 2024)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Roumier offers copious amounts of black cherries and blueberry fruit. It is still a “baby”, though that doesn’t make it unenjoyable, even if you cannot help thinking that it needs at least another decade. The palate is framed by those succulent tannins, one of the tropes of the growing…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

Rousseau’s 2011 Ruchottes-Chambertin dazzles from start to finish. Plums, black cherries, cloves and violets are among the many notes that are alive in the glass. This is a surprisingly rich, explosive Ruchottes endowed with superb depth and more than enough intensity to drink beautifully for many, many years. What a gorgeous wine this is.

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(25% new oak; I tasted a representative blend from new and old barrels): Bright, deep color. Wild, musky, ripe dark berries, black cherry and botanical herbs on the captivating nose. Dense and sappy, offering an exhilarating high-wire act of sweetness and acidity. Complex flavors of black raspberry, licorice and game birds. Seriously concentrated, expressive grand…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

Bollinger’s 2015 Brut Grand Année is an intriguing wine in that is clearly reflects the decision to pick on the later side in order to avoid vegetal notes derived from the mismatch of alcoholic and phenolic ripeness. “Balance was hard to achieve in 2015,” Chef de Cave Denis Bunner notes. “At 10% in sugar, the…