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Vinous Table: The Sportsman, Kent, UK (Sep 2022)

We began with the 2017 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules from Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne, a 2021 disgorgement. This offers a discrete but complex array of scents with fleeting aromas of Japanese yuzu and lemon verbena, even a hint of rosewater in the background. The palate is beautifully balanced with unerring harmony; it’s not intense,…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Cailles 1er Cru has a Grenache-like bouquet, with hints of dried blood and leather coming through with aeration. It lacks a bit of Pinoté. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins. There’s a layer of new oak here, and it smothers the terroir expression on the finish that, like…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux is bright, focused and absolutely impeccable in its balance. Black cherry, plum, mint and spice notes are supported by beams of minerality that add tension. The Champeaux is a model of understatement and balance.

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Bright, medium red. Subtle aromas and flavors of redcurrant, tobacco, spices and smoke. A juicy, sexy midweight; a step up in texture and length from the Chambolle, with an intriguing earthy, gamey perfume nicely supported by sound acidity and firm tannins. Finishes with a lingering note of mocha.

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2004 Salon (Edition 2019) is fabulous. That is hardly a surprise, as the 2004 has always been magnificent. Subtle, nuanced and classy to the core, the 2004 shows the more refined side of Salon. In that sense, it shares a good bit stylistically with both the 2007 and 2008, but much less so than…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

This is the first time that I encountered the 2004 Salon, this in magnum format. What a gem! It has a typically steely and almost terse nose before it opens with thrilling scents of dew dappled green apples and citrus lemon mixed with crushed limestone. The palate is crystalline, brilliantly defined and poised with an…