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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Canon has a clean and precise bouquet. Redcurrant, cranberry and wild strawberry scents gradually emerge, perhaps a little more tertiary than previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins—a strict Canon, quite saline with just a hint of licorice coming through toward the finish. Although it does not reach the imperial heights…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Glass-staining purple. Explosive aromas of dark berries, fresh violet and anise, with a hint of smokiness in the background. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering deeply pitched, spice-tinged cassis and bitter cherry flavors accented by bitter herbs. Closes extremely long, with firm tannic grip and alluring sweetness, leaving a zesty mineral note behind. Showing…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

Light gold. High-pitched aromas of lemon pith, quince and green apple, with complicating notes of smoky minerals and chamomile. Dry, nervy and very tight, with slow-to-open citrus and orchard fruit flavors and complicating notes of white pepper and buttered toast. Boasts excellent intensity and clarity but shuts down hard on the finish, which features strong…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good deep red (these ’06s are darker than the ’07s in virtually every case). High-pitched, pure aromas of cherry and flowers. Dense, seamless and sweet in the mouth, with a fine-grained texture and captivating inner-mouth perfume. Offers terrific clarity of fruit and really stains the palate on the long aftertaste. A strong vintage for Vosne-Romanee,…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Ducru-Beaucaillou is surprisingly reticent at this stage, almost shockingly so. I imagine that won't be an issue in time. If anything, I am quite struck by the wine's energy and drive. Dark-fleshed fruit, spice, mint, lavender and new oak build in the glass. From barrel, the Ducru was opulent and sensual, but it…