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Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)

Crushed roses, smoke, dried cherries and wild flowers waft from the glass as the 1998 Brut Dom Ruinart Rosé shows off its delicate, sensual personality. The 1998 Rosé impresses for its subtle understatement and total class. Although quite pretty today, the 1998 is a relatively mid-weight version of the estate’s Rosé with excellent length, but…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 2001 Ornellaia (magnum) offers up violets, black cherries, minerals and earthiness in a big, structured style. The wine’s sheer intensity and thrust are nothing short of remarkable. Ideally, readers will give the 2001 another few years in bottle; as it is truly majestic stuff but will require patience. The 2001 Ornellaia is 65% Cabernet…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(14. 6% alcohol). Saturated ruby-red. Flamboyant, upfront aromas of black- and redcurrant, raspberry, strawberry, chocolate, mocha and violet pastille. Big, rich, sweet and deep, with superripe, distinctly Mediterranean flavors of blueberry, strawberry and chocolate, kept fresh by sound acidity. Conveys an impression of powerful extract. Finishes with superb, noble tannins and mounting flavors of red…

The Best New Wines from Spain (Nov 2001)

Medium ruby. Sappy raspberry, game and spices on the nose. A wine of great verve and sweetness; lush and chewy but also urgent and sharply delineated. Bracing acids give this dense wine buns of steel. Wonderful expanding finish features strong but thoroughly ripe tannins. An outstanding vintage for this legendary wine.

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 1992 is an attractive, early Masseto from a challenging year that benefits from the magnum format. There is good depth for a wine of its age, if not quite the finesse the estate would find later. Sweet red cherry, red plum, raspberry and floral notes give the 1992 a real feeling of brightness that…

Vinous Table: Chez Bruce, London, UK (Aug 2019)

The 2000 Vieux-Château-Certan is a Pomerol that I had not encountered for some time. Perhaps this vintage has lost some of its initial luster, not least because the consensus from winemakers and consumers alike is that the appellation performed far better in 2001. This millennial VCC has a saturnine nose even after almost two decades,…