Archives: Product Reviews

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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full medium ruby. Exotic aromas of cassis, roast coffee and sweet oak. Sweet, thick and oaky, with superb breadth of flavor; at once chewy and smooth. An impressively rich, ripe, oaky Mouton with palate-staining length and strong finishing oakiness. But less noble and scented than the young 2002, which may be every bit as dense.

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 2004 Petrus is not one of the strongest wines of the decade, though it remains a fine Pomerol. The bouquet does not hold back with splendid fruit concentration: floral top notes with pressed violets and shaved black truffles, traits I observed in previous bottles. The palate is gracefully moving into its secondary phase with…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep medium red. Subtly complex aromas of mulberry, red cherry, toffee, caramel, iron and flowers. A bit narrow on entry, then expands in the middle palate without any loss of focus. A very firmly built, vibrant and classy 2004 with a tight mineral core and ineffable spice character. This is by far the most backward…

Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Montrachet Grand Cru is bright, focused and nicely sculpted. Just starting to drink well, the 2014 is a Montrachet built more on linear energy rather than volume. It’s in the sweet spot today, now that it has softened a touch with age. Hints of citrus, white flowers, crushed rocks and slate linger on…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright yellow-straw. Knockout soil-driven aromas and flavors of crushed rock, menthol, mint, ginger, white flowers, hazelnut and iodiney minerality, with a hint of fresh pear emerging with time in the glass: it would be easier to list what I didn’t find in this wine! As tactile as a solid but with extraordinary mineral energy–and a…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Briary raspberry, dark cherry and menthol on the nose, along with a medicinal reserve. Powerful and thick on entry, then quite closed, even medicinal, in the middle, without the exotic character that this cuvee often shows in the early going. Quite closed today but this utterly seamless, superrich wine boasts superb structure…