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Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

Tasted from magnum, the 1985 Krug Collection is a poignant reminder of just how well Champagne ages in the big bottle. Extraordinarily complex and yet so subtle, the 1985 is utterly captivating. A slight hint of Burgundian reduction adds aromatic nuance and intrigue as this stellar, silky Champagne shows off its pure pedigree. The 1985…

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2004 Giscours has a respectable bouquet given the growing season—well-defined, traditional claret in every way with shades of forest floor and graphite. Well-balanced with slightly dry tannins, it’s missing a little backbone towards the finish. I suspect it will not improve with bottle age.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Saturated medium ruby. Blackberry, bitter chocolate and nutty oak on the nose; seems rather heavily extracted. Fat, chewy and sweet, with a slightly chunky medicinal black cherry flavor. Finishes with big, broad, granular tannins. A big boy for the vintage, but in an extractive style. (The sample I tasted in the spring of 2005 seemed…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)

60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot; 29.3 g/l dry extract; 13.2% alcohol): Dark ruby with purple highlights. Lively aromas and flavors of cassis, violet, cedar and minerals. Then fresh, suave and balanced, offering good balance but only average intensity. Finishes suave and clean, with persistent floral and licorice notes. A rather stylish wine and yet…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Village had been racked three weeks earlier. I tasted from a used barrel, but the final blend will include 20% new wood. The perfumed nose, mainly of black fruit here, reveals a touch of pressed iris that is nicely defined. The palate is replete with crunchy black fruit and a hint of…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good ruby-red. Roasted plum, currant and leather on the nose. Thick, rich and deep, with uncanny sweetness and mouth coverage for this bottling. Finishes very long, with a suggestion of dried fruits and big tannins that are even sweeter than those of the 2005 (the IPT here is 71, vs. 65 in the ’05).