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2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(25% new oak; I tasted a representative blend from new and old barrels): Bright, deep color. Wild, musky, ripe dark berries, black cherry and botanical herbs on the captivating nose. Dense and sappy, offering an exhilarating high-wire act of sweetness and acidity. Complex flavors of black raspberry, licorice and game birds. Seriously concentrated, expressive grand…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

Bollinger’s 2015 Brut Grand Année is an intriguing wine in that is clearly reflects the decision to pick on the later side in order to avoid vegetal notes derived from the mismatch of alcoholic and phenolic ripeness. “Balance was hard to achieve in 2015,” Chef de Cave Denis Bunner notes. “At 10% in sugar, the…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Full, deep red. Wonderfully sappy, floral nose shows more red fruits than black, along with complementary oak spices. Tactile, salty and sharply delineated, conveying outstanding lift to its classically dry flavors of red berries and spices. Obviously a very young wine and yet there’s nothing brutal about it even today; in fact, this is more…

One Night in Taipei: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1995-2017 (Jun 2025)

The 2014 Richebourg Grand Cru has an exquisite bouquet with wonderful transparency and Pinoté, displaying vivid red cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, lively and tensile. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of energy right from the start. It boasts finely tuned tannins, none of the greenness that afflicts some of its peers, with real nerve…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Explosive aromas of plum liqueur, currant, minerals and lead pencil. Huge, lush, sweet and utterly seamless; this has the palate-caressing texture of liquid velvet. About as deep as this extreme vintage gets. Finishes with noble, compellingly sweet tannins and great length. This is amazing wine, and only its exotic character prevented me from giving…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Full, dark red, Sappy scents of black raspberry, violet and licorice are higher-pitched and considerably less earthy than those of the Corton. Chewy and penetrating in the mouth, conveying strong energy and a restrained sweetness to the tactile flavors of plum, berries, spices and pepper. This wine, too, delivers the saline minerality of the year,…