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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Canon-la-Gaffelière has quite a compact nose, backward and rather surly compared to its peers. It feels a little Left Bank in style with light pencil shaving aromas developing. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, a fine bead of acidity, nicely structured with a grippy, quite spicy and forthright finish that feels reassuringly…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(tasted from barrel): Good pale yellow with green highlights. Pure but restrained nose hints at underripe pineapple, lime and menthol. Denser and fatter than the Meursault Perrieres, with a more accessible sweetness making it easier to taste today. The sound lemony acidity here is masked by the power of the wine. Finishes very ripe, rich,…

Argentina Reaches New Heights (Sep 2019)

Bright, dark red-ruby. Wild, musky scents and flavors of black raspberry, black pepper, olive tapenade, licorice and rocky salinity. Plush, savory and seamless; a mouthcoating Malbec-based blend with superb depth and palate presence. As concentrated as this wine is, it’s medium-bodied in the style of this cooler year but also remarkably nuanced and harmonious from…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Climens was tasted from two bottles, the first weirdly green. The second was an absolute joy. Well-defined on the nose, it offers lovely beeswax, honeysuckle, jasmine and yellow flowers. The palate is very pure with fine weight, quite tangy, lightly spiced with a pretty marmalade-tinged finish. A very commendable Sauternes in context of…

Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)

The 2004 La Lagune has a well-defined bouquet, something that I think was missing throughout the wines up until this date. Blackberry, briary, touches of rose petal and then later, hints of Lapsong Souchang and sous-bois all contribute to a very satisfying array of aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a mixture of…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(55% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 15% petit verdot; all of the fruit was in by September 29 except for the cabernet) Medium ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, violet, bitter chocolate and licorice. Supple, sweet and suave, with dark berry, violet and licorice flavors enlivened by bright acidity. Firm tannic spine gives this wine a youthful…