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Vinous Table: The Black Bull, Sedbergh, UK (Jan 2020)

For the reds, the restaurant allowed corkage on a bottle of 1975 Haut-Batailley. Left Bank wines born in this vintage have a propensity to be tannic and very austere. This, plus the fact that in this era, Haut-Batailley was a rather down-at-heel estate, meant that my hopes for this Pauillac were tempered. Well, blow me…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1992 Brane-Cantenac was picked September 25 to October 11 at 32.5hl/ha. The bouquet is actually better than the previous bottle served two years earlier, displaying a little more presence of fruit than I expected, in the form of cranberry and strawberry mixed with iron rust and orange pith notes. The palate is medium-bodied with…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill is dark and explosive in the glass, with real energy driving the blue/purplish fruit, lavender, spice, licorice and chocolate flavors. Deep and substantial, the Volcanic Hill offers a striking combination of the virile power this wine is known for but with the slightly soft contours of the year. That’s…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

(the blend is based on 60% cabernet sauvignon) Good saturated medium ruby. Very pure, ripe, floral aromas of black cherry, raspberry, cassis and spices. Juicy, spicy and layered, with strong but well-integrated acidity giving the wine lovely early balance and intensifying its flavors. Broadens out impressively on the back half without losing its shape. Highly…

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Good bright medium ruby. Subtly complex, granitic nose melds cassis, blueberry, smoky gunflint, pepper, tar, bitter chocolate, roast coffee, leather, game and animal fur. Wonderfully juicy but currently rather folded in on itself. But this has brilliant acidity, precision and penetration on the palate. Almost painfully intense and wonderfully long and gripping on the back….

Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses (Mar 2024)

The 2001 L’Hermitage has aged gracefully. Vivid iodine, black olive tapenade, dried violet, forest floor, cured meat and wet tea bag all race out of the glass. Medium-bodied and distinctively refreshing, the palate gradually brings out more flavors, revealing dried red and black fruits, game, black pepper and a finely tuned herbal edge. Coming in…