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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Vieux Château Certan, a blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, is a vintage that I have not tasted for a few years. It has an intriguing nose, difficult to fathom out at the beginning, with noticeable algae-like notes that tinge the predominantly black fruit. These aromatics need time…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Dark red. Spice and cedar notes currently dominate aromas of red fruits, truffle, pepper and burnished oak. Fruity and vinous in the mouth, with moderate flesh but very good verve and juicy intensity. Consistent from start to finish. Finishes fresh and persistent, with slightly dusty tannins.

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1979 Pichon-Lalande was born in an era when Michel Delon of Léoville Las-Cases assisted at the property and lent his magic touch. It has a lovely, leafy and autumnal bouquet plus touches of meat juices. Like the 1976, it seems founded on the Merlot rather than the Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a smooth texture,…

Cellar Favorite: 1990 Château Latour (Nov 2019)

Tasting the 1990 Latour is like running into a long-lost friend. Still dark, deep and spectacularly flamboyant, the 1990 possesses remarkable textural richness from the very first taste. Time in the glass brings out a whole range of pencil shaving, dark fruit, chocolate, licorice and spice flavors, but more than anything else, the 1990 is…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1990 Latour is a First Growth intent on giving as much pleasure as ‘vinously’ possible. Undeniably, there is quite a bit of brettanomyces on the nose that renders this the most animally and feral of Château Latour wines in recent years and yet you cannot help but fall for its almost garish charms. Underneath…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium-deep red. Great vibrant nose of redcurrant, licorice, minerals and tobacco, along with a minty austerity. Thick and large-scaled, like an essence of Pauillac. Really explodes in the middle palate. Incredible unfolding peacock tail of a finish. A monumental, powerfully structured wine with great long-term aging potential. Drink 2008 through 2040.