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2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Dark red-ruby. Plum, redcurrant, cedar, cigar box and tobacco on the evolving nose. Pliant and sweet, with moderate depth and dimension. Can’t match the later vintages for verve or inner-mouth complexity. Finishes with dusty tannins and good length.

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1999 Lynch-Bages has a deep core with modest aging on the rim. The nose is austere, a little introspective, as undergrowth mixes with black truffle and morels showing fine definition. There is definitely some greenness here. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins that frame the tart red fruit laced with tobacco and smoke….

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

Though I have not been a huge fan of the 1986 Latour, this is undoubtedly the best bottle I have encountered. Deep and youthful, it offers black fruit and a strong stony/dusty element that clarifies with aeration, though it remains slightly disjointed. The palate is medium-bodied and solid with its gritty tannin. Firm with a…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Full ruby-red. Sappy aromas of black and blue fruits, licorice pastille and menthol lifted by a floral topnote. Then tight, dry and classic on the palate, with terrific energy and an impression of weightlessness to the youthfully imploded flavors of black fruits, minerals, camphor, cedar and tobacco. As smooth as it is, it’s also quite…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2006 Haut-Bailly is a very capable Pessac-Léognan from an oft-overlooked vintage. This repeats its showing from a few months earlier with lovely blue and black fruits and violet aromas. Perhaps a mote of chimney soot here? The palate is medium-bodied with that slightly ferrous note and tobacco. This bottle is a touch creamier in…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Full ruby-red. Sappy aromas of black and blue fruits, licorice pastille and menthol lifted by a floral topnote. Then tight, dry and classic on the palate, with terrific energy and an impression of weightlessness to the youthfully imploded flavors of black fruits, minerals, camphor, cedar and tobacco. As smooth as it is, it’s also quite…