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2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Spicy aromas of soft citrus fruits and hazelnut. Fat, supple, sweet and rich, but a bit less pure than the Tillets. There’s a slight bitter edge to the orange oil flavor. From another barrel: Purer on the nose and palate, with a more obvious hazelnut character. But still not as precise as Roulot’s best ’06s….

2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

Slightly reduced flinty nose. Then richer and lower in acidity than the Meix Chavaux, with an early harmoniousness to the flavors of yellow fruits and orange. Fleshy more than really fat, in a typical Roulot way. Finishes with lovely persistence. Half of these vines are 50 years old.

Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)

The Chablis Vaillons is quite striking in 2011. Subtle, elegant and beautifully perfumed, the 2011 shows a level of delineation and inner fragrance that is uncommon in this vintage. This feminine, gracious Chablis is drop-dead gorgeous today. Floral notes reappear on the finish, adding further lift, energy and focus.

2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

(this and the following 2011s were bottled in May, just a few weeks before my visit): Bright pale yellow. Reticent aromas of pear, mirabelle and white pepper. Rich, broad, sweet and very ripe, delivering round flavors of soft citrus fruits, crystallized lemon peel and yellow peach lifted by a floral note. Then dry and long…

2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

Pale, bright yellow. Citrus peel, white peach and white pepper on the subdued nose. Tighter and less fleshy than the Foret today, conveying a youthfully imploded character. But this wine boasts adamant minerality and excellent tension. Finishes uncompromisingly dry, even a touch phenolic. In an awkward stage now, and more serious than usual for this…

2013 Chablis: Living on the Edge (Aug 2014)

Today, the 2012 Chablis Montmains comes across as a bit austere and holding back much of its personality, which is not totally surprising considering the 2012s have just been bottled and Montmains is a cooler site.