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1997 and 1996 Sauternes (Jul 1999)

Healthy pale color. Ethereal, highly complex nose combines floral and herbal scents with notes of pineapple, marzipan, mint and spicy oak. Moderately viscous, sweet and shapely; concentrated and fresh. Like the ’97, this is silky and suave. The very long, ripe finish hints at honey and caramel.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Ferrière has a pretty, estuarine nose with pain d’épices and allspice aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and well-balanced, with supple tannins, gentle grip and no over-ripeness. It has a slightly chewy but focused finish. Perfect to drink now. Tasted at the château.

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1993 Pichon-Lalande is a vintage that I have not tasted for a long time, and this bottle suggests that I haven’t been missing much. It has a raw, rather lean bouquet that feels green, the Cabernet Sauvignon probably not having reached full ripeness. The palate is typical of many Left Bank 1993s, dominated by…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Good ruby-red. Youthful but complex aromas of black cherry, iron, tar, game, espresso and chicory. Lush, deep and oaky, with good finesse and sound structure. Finishes with noteworthy length and substantial but ripe tannins.

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1990 Léoville-Poyferré is a wine that I have drunk on several occasions over the years. This ex-château example has a slightly rustic nose, maybe with a touch of VA, though the aromatics are stuffed with so much fruit that you cannot help but fall for its charms. Touches of mint and melted dark chocolate…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Deep red-ruby. Remarkably complex aromas of chestnuts, earth, truffle, shoe polish and a cigar-box nuance. Suave, intensely flavored fruit; a very youthful, sharply defined and thoroughly delicious wine of great finesse. Finishes firm and long. Our favorite Poyferré since the ’83. The three Léovilles are stunning—and completely different in style—in 1990. 91(+?), use more clarity…