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Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Deep brilliant violet. A highly complex bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, incense and potpourri, while olive and exotic spice nuances build in the glass. Palate-staining cassis, bitter cherry, salty olive, spicecake and violet pastille flavors show superb delineation and a bracing spine of juicy acidity. Closes extremely long and smoky, displaying repeating mineral…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 73/27 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 3.75 ph; 14% alcohol) Dark ruby. Perfumed, floral aromas of black cherry, violet and lavender. Enters bright and fruity, with savory black cherry and blackcurrant flavors, then turns increasingly tight and austere on the back, finishing with slightly astringent tannins and persistent, pure black fruit flavors. Though…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Capbern Gasqueton is a wine that I never tasted en primeur. It has a very intense bouquet with blackberry, tobacco, dried blood and loamy aromas that vie for attention, all served up with impressive delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, a lovely rondeur here that counterbalances the structure of the vintage….

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1991 Chambertin Grand Cru is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years (it was not part of last year’s epic vertical). I have never been as taken with this vintage as the 1993. With brambly red fruit, leather and sous-bois on the nose, it is beautifully defined, if not blessed with…

Domaine Armand Rousseau: Chambertin 1988 – 2002 (Aug 2017)

One of the highlights in this vertical, the 1991 Chambertin is simply stratospheric. Dense and powerful, with a huge center of fruit and exceptional balance, the 1991 is wonderfully complete from start to finish. The flavors are shrouded in darkness, and yet there is more than enough aromatic lift, sweetness and freshness to balance its…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Batailley has an attractive, meaty bouquet with more red fruit than black, unlike many of its peers. With aeration it appears to gain more floral notes and lift. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, linear and focused, offering pencil lead, cedar and light spicy notes toward the conservative, controlled finish. A mocha-tinged…