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2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

Pale yellow. Complex nose melds lemon, lime, apple, flowers, powdered stone and sexy fresh herbs. Silky on entry, then quite firm in the middle, with the crushed stone element initially dominating underlying fruit. With aeration, this showed a richer texture and emerging citrus fruit and floral qualities. There’s a slightly saline quality here and a…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Deep, bright red. Blueberry, licorice, violet, menthol and fresh herbs on the nose, with a medicinal reserve. The rather backward medicinal character follows through on the palate, but there’s also a deeply seductive, succulent quality to this grand cru’s very fresh dark fruit and spice flavors. The building tannins are supported by the wine’s lush…

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2016 Barbaresco Costa Russi is ripe, creamy and enveloping, as it so often is, and yet also preserves the super classic sense of structure that runs through all these wines. In 2016, Costa Russi has an extra touch of mid-palate sweetness that gives the wine its sense of immediacy. Succulent red cherry, rosewater, kirsch,…

2006 Barolo: A Modern-Day Classic in the Making (Feb 2010)

The 2007 Langhe Sperss is beyond impeccable in the way it combines a powerful expression of Serralunga fruit in a round, enveloping style. Make no mistake about it, there is plenty of intensity and muscle here, but in 2007 Sperss is exceptionally harmonious from the start. The fruit is decidedly darker than the red-toned Conteisa,…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good medium-deep red. Classic Barolo aromas of strawberry, underbrush, tar and brown spices. Incredibly rich, plush and smooth, showcasing the sweetness of the year in spades. This remarkably round, thick wine envelops the entire palate but has enough acidity to avoid coming off as heavy. The great, slowly building finish features utterly harmonious ripe tannins…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good bright, deep red. Sexy, deep nose offers cherry, smoke, dried rose and minerals. Plump, round, seamless and deep, with compelling sweetness to the cherry, raspberry, spice and mocha flavors. For all its sweetness, this terrific Barolo is remarkably penetrating too. The extremely long, palate-staining finish features big but sweet tannins that softened with time…