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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Mouton-Rothschild has always been a rather disappointing First Growth, and despite the perfect provenance of this ex-château bottle, its juxtaposition against the 1996 does it no favors. It has an earthy, loose-knit, tobacco-stained bouquet that never clicks out of second gear. The palate is similar, reasonably well balanced but lacking cohesion and, in…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Knockout smoky nose of cedar, leather, earth, truffle and game. Then rather tightly coiled and far less pliant than the nose would suggest. Strong acids contribute to this wine rather powerful structure. But I don’t find the flesh shown by the best wines from this vintage. Finishes quite firm, youthfully backward and…

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

The 1995 Salon, disgorged à la volée and naturally sans dosage, is rich, ample and creamy. In this vertical, the 1995 stands out for its broad, ample frame and tropically-leaning overtones. So often, Salon is a Champagne of tension and focus. Even without dosage, the 1995 is distinctly more ample than is the norm and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Pale straw, with gold highlights. Leesy, buttery aromas of honey, orange and toast. Toffee apple, fresh apricot and exotic papaya flavors are accented by dense truffle and smoke. Possesses a wonderfully supple texture and good heft but there’s ample acidity to keep it fresh and bright. Finishes spicy, firm and long. This will age well….

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Pungent, vivid aromas of pineapple, lime, rose petal, honeysuckle and powdered stone. Wonderfully dense and rich but fine-grained, with an almost velvety texture leavened by vibrant, harmonious acidity. A big, pliant, mouthcoating Salon with great ripeness of fruit and subtle floral and mineral notes. Amazingly solid Champagne that really coats the mouth on the explosive,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

Winemaker Eric Kohler recalled the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild as being born in a sad summer. Personally, I have liked this First Growth since I first tasted it in barrel. Now 20 years old, it is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is clean and detailed, with black currant, raspberry, melted tar…