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Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 1988 Cristal Rosé might be even better than the 1990 Cristal served alongside it. I admire its ability to transmit concentration and depth while remaining light on its feet. Blood orange, mint, white pepper, tangerine and crushed rocks all saturate the palate. Both wines are simply exceptional. They are also sublime with the food,…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Mouton Rothschild has a strong peppermint/eucalyptus-scented nose that, in this case, occludes the terroir and fruit profile. Perhaps this might have dissipated with longer aeration. The palate is sweeter than the accompanying 1985 Latour, plush and opulent in the style of the 1982, but without the same grandeur or complexity when that vintage…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Ruby purple. The floral nose of violet, white pepper, flint and truffle is very Pomerol. Then a little chunky and warm in the mouth, with fruit-driven flavors of blackcurrant and black cherry complicated by underbrush and cocoa. Offers good intensity and the smooth, sophisticated finish displays only moderate length.

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Gazin has a delightful bouquet with more red than black fruit (raspberry, cranberry and a touch of red cherry) – a joyful and perhaps less “serious” nose, but one with detail and class. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins. This feels very lithe with an almost perfect bead of acidity. Harmonious…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pape Clément has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, hints of liquorice and cedar, very well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and impressive depth. This is a Pessac with ambition and what it asks in complexity it makes up for in concentration on the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Complex but restrained aromas of spiced plum, strawberry, mocha, iron, tobacco and sexy oak. Wonderfully rich, layered and concentrated, with a chewy, high-extract quality to its powerful cassis, blueberry, camphor and licorice flavors. Compellingly chewy but without any easy sweetness. Wonderfully intense but not at all overextracted, conveying an impression of medicinal reserve…