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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good medium ruby. Blackberry jam, tobacco leaf, minerals, violet and shoe polish on the nose. Then very concentrated but painfully tight and closed in on itself, with its cool blackberry and chocolate flavors dominated by its tannic structure. Showing the slightly green, medicinal quality that often characterizes young cabernet franc. Today there’s little evidence of…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, stoic, delineated bouquet with scents of wet limestone and sea spray, just a slight menthol note developing with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. A very pretty, elegant Bienvenue that reveals hints of blood orange and sour lemon on the precise,…

Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)

One of the highlights in this tasting, the 1987 Opus One is simply gorgeous. Cinnamon, cloves, cigar box, cedar, menthol, licorice and pine all flesh out in a deeply expressive, resonant Opus One of the highest level. I am amazed at how young, vibrant and utterly impeccable the 1987 is. The tannins remain alive, so…

1987 California Cabernets (Sep 2002)

Bright red-ruby. Captivating aromas of currant, smoky French oak, coffee, game and animal fur. Sweet and meaty in the mouth, with lovely texture and suggestions of exotic spices. Opens out nicely on the back half in a way that few of these ’87s do; has a mouthfeel I can only describe as claret-like. A firmly…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2016 Sassicaia is one of the most powerful, imposing young Sassicaias I can remember tasting. Explosive and vibrant with stunning depth, the 2016 possesses off-the-charts aromatic intensity, richness and structure, all in a mid-weight style that is so distinctive. Plum, lavender, rose petal, spice and mint all build into the explosive, deep finish in…

On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2010 Sassicaia is just beginning to show the first signs of aromatic development. Sweet tobacco, mint, pine, dried cherries and licorice open up in the glass, but only with great reluctance. The 2010 remains a wine of striking precision and nuance, but it also has an element of classical austerity that is especially apparent…