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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cos d'Estournel is a racy, powerful Saint-Estèphe that is going to need quite a bit of time to find its center. Today, it is tightly wound, but all the energy is there. Lush and extravagantly ripe, the 2018 possesses tremendous depth and plenty of energy to back it all up. Here, too, I…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cos d’Estournel showed a lot of promise when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle and given a 2–3-hour decant, it has a gorgeous and disarmingly pure bouquet, slightly high-toned with iodine scents infusing the lush blackberry and boysenberry scents. The oak is seamlessly integrated. The palate is fresh and crisp on…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Opaque ruby. Intensely perfumed, spice- and mineral-accented blueberry, kirsch, fruitcake and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of incense and botanical herbs. Shows superb clarity and mineral thrust to its sweet black and blue fruit, cola, violet pastille and spicecake flavors, which deftly meld depth and vivacity. Finishes extremely long and smooth, with polished tannins…

Northern Rhône: A First Look at the 2019s (May 2020)

An assertively perfumed bouquet displays an array of ripe red and blue fruit preserve, floral and spice qualities, along with suggestions of licorice, smoky bacon fat and mineral notes. Effortlessly marries depth and energy and offers sweet cherry, crème de mûre and candied violet flavors sharpened by building mineral and spice flourishes. Shows noteworthy clarity…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full, deep red. Superripe aromas of redcurrant, plum, cherry, flowers and beefsteak tomato. Sweet, fat and full, but less wild and expressive today than the 2006. Distinct notes of milk chocolate and roasted berries. The major tannins currently cut off the wine’s fruit. Impressively rich but lacks a spark: is this too ripe for…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1995 Montrose has a backward bouquet with mainly red berry fruit, stewed black tea and brown spices, terracotta scents emerging with time. There is fine delineation; initially quite backward, as Montrose often can be, though it opens with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine weight, beautifully balanced, somehow quite “soothing” in…