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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a very clean and precise bouquet that is more pixelated than the Bienvenue. The palate is very well balanced and displays seamless integration thanks to the perfect line of acidity. This just sashays along, with touches of ginger and lemongrass towards the finish, wonderful salinity and nervosité – an…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1989 d’Angludet does not quite possess the complexity as the 1982 tasted alongside, offering loose-knit forest floor and cigar box scents. It’s just a bit loose at the seams. While the palate is balanced, I find a touch of greenness around the edges before tapering toward the finish. This is certainly not a bad…

Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ Bouchon Racine, London, UK (Oct 2024)

Finally, the 1990 Latour is a vintage that I have not drunk for five years. It is surprisingly youthful on the nose, with dense black fruit, cedar, violet petals and graphite, and it is less opulent than previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with beautiful poise, and the tannins are more polymerized than the magnum…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1961 Léoville Las-Cases, served from a half-bottle, shows moderate bricking on the rim. It has developed a gorgeous, somehow “mellow” bouquet that is refined and envelops the senses. This contains more red fruit than the previous bottle, with hints of cedar and bay leaf alongside a touch more orange blossom and dried flowers. The…

Picture This: Domaine Henri Gouges 1945 – 2016 (Oct 2018)

The 2006 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru has impressive intensity on the nose with blackberry, bilberry, dried leaves and a touch of dry tobacco. There is certainly good fruit intensity here. The palate is clean and fresh on the entry with grainy tannins, nicely structured with cracked black pepper on the earthy finish. This…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good bright, deep red. Rather withdrawn but pure nose hints at dark berries, minerals and a menthol austerity. Tight, pure and imploded, with superb definition of flavor but very introverted today. A note of red licorice gives lift to the middle palate. This very young and extremely promising wine finishes with youthfully tough tannins that…