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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Clos du Marquis does not have the amplitude or complexity of the 2003 Pontensac on the nose, with slightly muffled red fruit, leather and baking powder scents. It does improve, however, in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, tobacco, light graphite and dried blood notes. Maybe just missing the…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Plum and roasted nuts on the nose. Large-scaled, vinous and deep; thick fruit is given clarity by sound acidity. Very long and subtle on the finish, with serious but harmonious tannins. An outstanding second label, as good as most classified growths from St. Julien.

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 2006 Pavie is now showing a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is a little Bretty though not the worst you will find, with red berry fruit, menthol, star anise and light tarry scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a rather medicinal but decent entry, quite dense tannins and a heady, opulent finish….

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Saturated bright ruby. The fruit-driven aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, violet pastille, espresso, minerals and sexy oak offer superb perfume. Hugely rich and sweet but with outstanding inner-mouth minerality and energy and enticing violet lift. For all its ripeness, there’s nothing roasted about this superconcentrated Saint-Emilion; in fact, this wine is quite backward and reserved…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Dense ruby. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, creme de cassis, underbrush and licorice. Supple and quite suave, with palate-coating dark berry flavors. Spicy and sweet on the finish, with the berry and licorice notes repeating. This fruit bomb will be delicious young.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(12.4% alcohol after a bit of osmose inverse Good dark red-ruby. Pure aromas of dark berries and licorice, with a peppery lift. Sweet and spicy, with very good fruit intensity and a chocolatey impression of ripeness. Finishes with good fruity persistence but not the verve or grip of the best years.