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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Excellent deep ruby. Vibrant, perfumed aromas of cassis, crystallized black cherry, Cuban tobacco, minerals, dark chocolate and mint. Thick, sweet and concentrated; ripe and pliant. Lively flavor of crunchy berries. Lovely balance and complexity. Finishes very long, with chewy, palate-coating tannins. A classic vintage for Branaire, says Dhalluin, who considers this and the ’89 the…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1995 Château Margaux is a vintage perhaps unfairly over-shadowed by the imperious 1996. That is unfair because the late Paul Pontallier crafted a great First Growth this year. It has a very impressive, quintessential Margaux bouquet that is undimmed after 23 years: black fruit, graphite, crushed violets and a touch of tobacco. If anything…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Excellent deep ruby color. Very complex aromas of blackcurrant, wild plum, violets, minerals, tar and smoky oak. Dense and supple, with great sweetness of fruit. Doesn’t have quite the sheer power of the ’96, but the flavors build and build. Substantial tannins are chewier than those of the ’96 but hit the palate later. 1986…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1995 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. This bottle showed well, even if it was pipped to the post by the 1995 Ducru-Beaucaillou on the night. It has a youthful bouquet with more red fruit than previous bottles, infused with freshly rolled tobacco and pencil box, crushed…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Full-blown aromas of caramel, toffee, honey, white chocolate and damp earth; slightly Tokaj-like. Hugely concentrated and layered in the mouth; extraordinary sweetness cut by harmonious acidity. As with the best vintages of Yquem, the finish goes on for a minute or more. Stains, and stuns, the palate. A huge wine, surprisingly extravagant on the nose…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

Strangely, this is my first note on the 1990 Yquem, a vintage tasted many times. Now 35 years old, it has an enticing bouquet of wild honey, barley sugar, crème brûlée and figs that billows with aeration, certainly more opulent than the ’89 but quite irresistible. The palate is vibrant and poised, weighty with plenty…