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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly has a more opulent bouquet than its peers with gorgeous pure red cherry, kirsch and blackcurrant notes laced with sage and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe fruit, voluminous compared to its Pessac peers but lacking a little cohesion and precision on the finish. Two bottles opened as there was…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby. Highly perfumed nose is brimming with blackcurrant, blackberry and violet; shows an almost fruit cocktail quality. Then smooth, dense and lush, with noteworthy intensity to its fresh black fruit flavors complicated by stony minerality and exotic herbs. A wonderfully seamless and concentrated wine with superb balance, very smooth tannins and an extremely long…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly remains a glorious example from this Pessac-Léognan estate and confirms my recent encounters. Blueberries and cassis scents soon join black cherries, blood orange and iris flower notes on the nose. It skillfully translates the precocity of the growing season, though there is just a touch of alcohol that blurs the edges compared…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de La Bussière 1er Cru, which includes 55% whole bunch, has a transparent and distinctly marine-influenced, oyster-shell tinged bouquet. It is a little more floral than previous vintages – delicate, even. The palate is medium-bodied with a quite saline, lightly spiced entry. Touches of white pepper and clove develop toward the…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a lot of volatility on the nose that masks the terroir. It seems to address that with aeration, albeit remaining feisty. The palate is sweet and candid with “squishy” red fruit that lacks definition, the finish blurred and in want of more freshness. Hard-going on the dense…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru is extremely well defined on the nose of intense blackberry and raspberry fruit, crushed rock and light wilted iris flower. The palate is medium-bodied with a bold structure, a Les Cras with huge dimension and a firm grip at this early stage. Wonderful salinity here, and it fans…