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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

Strangely, this is my first note on the 1990 Yquem, a vintage tasted many times. Now 35 years old, it has an enticing bouquet of wild honey, barley sugar, crème brûlée and figs that billows with aeration, certainly more opulent than the ’89 but quite irresistible. The palate is vibrant and poised, weighty with plenty…

Cristal – The 1980s…A Decade of Change (Dec 2018)

Hints of caramel, orange peel, apricot jam and spice run through the 1989 Cristal. Ample, creamy and generous, the 1989 is in great shape today. The slightly forward aromas and flavors suggest the 1989 has arrived at a plateau of maturity. I would prefer to drink it over the next decade or so, although the…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2000 Haut-Brion has the upper hand over La Mission at the moment, and I don’t see that changing. It’s always been one of my favourite wines of the vintage. Blackberry and black olive, copious incense and terracotta notes almost hypnotize the senses. The palate is supremely well-balanced with finely sculpted tannins that frame the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full red-ruby. Roasted plum, currant, tobacco and minerals on the nose. Compellingly dense and thick but almost miraculously lively and light on its feet. Has a texture like liquid velvet, coating the entire palate. Wonderfully unmanipulated wine, with perfectly integrated acids giving it superb subtle vinosity and thrust. Finishes with outstanding building persistence, with the…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has a little more lift on the nose, dark berry fruit, cola and rose petals. A touch of forest floor percolates through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy tannins, red fruit laced with orange rind and a touch of lemon peel. It’s almost flinty towards the finish, quite…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Armand Rousseau flirts with perfection. There is stunning delineation on the nose. The precision and definition of the aromatics are like nothing else, revealing shimmering red berry fruit intermixed with rose petal and a hint of Morello cherry. The palate is a lattice of lace-like tannins, vibrating with…