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A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 1993 Lafleur is perhaps my least favourite from the difficult early ’90s. This is rather rustic and slightly vegetal on the nose, perhaps from some Cabernet Franc that did not achieve phenolic ripeness. Medium-bodied with stocky and slightly abrasive tannins, this now shows a bit of astringency on the finish. I have fonder memories…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2002 Brut Cuvée Rare Millésime comes across as compact, sweet and lacking in the complexity that is found in the best wine of this superb Champagne vintage.

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(mostly chardonnay, with some pinot noir; L136050): Light, bright gold. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes candied orange, pear and ginger, with building floral and spice nuances. Juicy and precise on the palate, offering an array of citrus and floral flavors that become richer with air. A hint of nuttiness arrives on the finish, which is…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru has a pretty nose with airy redcurrant and crushed strawberry fruit. It is not complex, though it conveys a sense of Pinoté. Returning to my glass, it begins to blossom, though it keeps its foot on the brake. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and well-judged…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Ducru-Beaucaillou is racy, deep and opulently beautiful. In 2017, Ducru is very red-fruited and floral, with tons of inner sweetness and nuance to match its sumptuous, exotic personality. Mint, spice, chocolate and licorice accents add character as the 2017 gains brightness, aromatic purity and detail with a bit of air. Bruno Borie gave…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2017 Ducru-Beaucaillou appears to have gained a little opulence since I last tasted it, just after bottling. Here it is armed with precocious blackberries, bilberry, violet petals and potpourri. Wonderful definition. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte, saturated tannins, superb intensity yet a Ducru-Beaucaillou with linearity and strictness. It is elevated by a saline…