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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Red-ruby. Black raspberry and licorice aromas are accented by black and green pepper. A fine-grained if slightly lean midweight, showing decent intensity and freshness but a green quality throughout. Finishes with dry-edged tannins. Will this expand with time in bottle?

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby-red. Reticent nose hints at small red berries and flowers, picking up hints of leather and wet earth with air. Then a little livelier on the palate, with delicate, very pleasant redcurrant and smoky plum flavors. Balanced and easygoing in its smooth tannic personality, but ultimately a wine of moderate length and complexity. In…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Ségla was tasted under two different closures. The first under cork, offers blackberry, briary and touches of violet on the quintessential Margaux nose that gains intensity with aeration. Very impressive. The palate is medium-bodied with fine boned tannins, superb depth and body with an energetic, very focused finish that leaves a longer spicy…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Alluring 2023s and Benchmark 2010s (Nov 2024)

The 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is spot-on. Pronounced licorice, forest floor, tobacco, blackberry jam and a nuance of garrigue are all pushed forward. Powerful and savory, the 2010 is a full-bodied, seriously structured Vieux Télégraphe that’s built for the long haul. Give it four more years to start revealing its full potential.

Vintage Retrospective: The 2007 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2017)

(15.2% alcohol): Dark ruby-red. Roasted currant, mocha, milk chocolate and a truffley nuance on the very ripe nose. Densely packed and sweet but a bit heavy in spite of a savory quality. Black cherry and licorice flavors are buffered by mocha and herbs. Finishes plump and persistent.

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2009)

Dark ruby. Currant, minerals, dark chocolate, tobacco, loam, smoke, roast coffee and spicebox scents on the complex nose. Lush, concentrated and broad, with a seamless texture and a captivating restrained sweetness. A wine with serious stuffing, and a step up in intensity and suavity from the Ranch bottling. Finishes very long, with slowly mounting flavors…