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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Le Dôme remains very tight and backward on the nose. Left to open for several hours, it manifests blackberry, briar and iris, then mint and menthol aromas join the chorus line. But it is all very tightly packed at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a ripe entry, quite plush and dense,…

Vertical Tasting of Quinta do Noval’s Nacional Vintage Port (Nov 2012)

Full medium ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of cassis, black cherry and mocha. Sweet and fine-grained, combining a powerful structure with surprisingly harmonious, chewy black fruit flavors. Much thicker and denser than the basic 2003 vintage port served alongside it, and a level beyond that wine in fruit intensity. Finishes very long and suave, with tongue-coating…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

(from south-facing vines): Moderately saturated medium red. Aromas of red cherry and flowers are riper than those of the rather tart, peppery Santenay Clos de Maltes that began my tasting here. Juicy and light, showing good energy and lift to its cherry and mint flavors. On the lean side but not short, finishing with firm…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Saturated medium red. Bright aromas and flavors of blackcurrant, plum, herbs and minerals offer good intensity and lift. The moderately long finish is distinctly aromatic and spicy, showing lovely texture and smooth tannins.

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Rauzan-Ségla has a ripe, flesh, red plum, hoisin and sandalwood-scented bouquet, quite showy and forward, willing to give sensory pleasure now, not tomorrow. The palate is beautifully balanced, fresh and saline with fine grain tannins. Linear, but there is tension here that is missing in some of the other 2011 Margaux wines. Persistent…

2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

(60% grenache and 40% mourvedre): Inky ruby. Heady aromas of red fruit liqueur, lavender, sandalwood and cola, with a smoky mineral topnote. Picks up a darker fruit character with air, showing superb concentration and spicy lift. The floral and cola notes come back strong on the finish, which is framed by smooth, sweet, harmonious tannins….