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2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

(basically 100% grenache): Deep red with a bright rim. A kaleidoscopic bouquet evokes red and dark berry preserves, blood orange and lavender, with deeper cherry pit and licorice qualities adding power. Sweet, expansive and pure, offering intense raspberry, bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors supported by a firm spine of acidity. Shows excellent clarity and…

Vinous Table: Planque, London, UK (Jul 2023)

The 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the third Rayas to blow our minds. Stunning delineation on the nose, this offers layers of red fruit, menthol, lavender oil and rosemary, the fruit just a notch darker than the 2005 alongside. The palate is perfectly balanced with a hint of Lapsang Souchong, fanning out gloriously towards a finish that…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2009 La Romanée Grand Cru puts in a curious showing. Paler in hue, I wonder whether there is any stem addition in the wine. Indeed, the nose is lighter than expected, with red cherries, strawberries, loam and espresso. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with commendable sharpness on the entry. Lightly spiced with a…

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)

The 2009 La Romanée is warm, radiant and seductive, with all of the charm that is so typical of the year. Sweet red cherry, rose petal, plum, leather and spice take on bold shades of expression. The 2009 is a bit hard to taste in this context, as all the other wines served alongside it…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good full medium red. Knockout, soil-driven nose combines black raspberry, flint, coffee and smoky minerality. Like liquid silk in the mouth but with superb energy for the vintage. In its creamy sweetness, firm structure and tight but fine-grained texture this reminded me of a platonic 2007 Barolo. The rising, palate-staining finish features noble tannins and…

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)

The 2008 is a powerful, vibrant La Romanée, but it is the slight element of lingering reduction that gives me the greatest pause. Enticing scents of dried rose petal, crushed flowers, mint and herbs open up first. Even with time in the glass, the 2008 remains a tightly wound ball of energy, with compelling inner…