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2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

Just as it was from barrel, the 2017 Carruades de Lafite is ample and rich on the palate. Succulent dark cherry, lavender, spice and plum all fill out the wine's frame effortlessly. In 2017, Carruades is especially resonant and creamy, with notable richness and volume. I expect the 2017 will drink well with just a…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Carruades de Lafite has a pleasant bouquet with brambly black fruit intermingling with damp earth and light tobacco aromas. Maybe it would benefit from a little more precision. The palate is well balanced with a saline tang on the entry. This is a little "chunky" at the moment, maybe missing the finesse of…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

Gosset’s 2004 Extra Brut Celebris is a powerful, bracing wine. Pinot Noir-infused red stone fruits, dried leaves, mint, herbs and spice notes, along with the low dosage, give the wine its distinctive combination of power, breadth and raciness. The 2004 needs a bit of time for the bouquet to open up, but when they do,…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an intense bouquet with blackberry, redcurrant and cranberry scents laced with tobacco and woodland aromas. Lovely definition and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, enormous depth and great concentration, perhaps the most Musigny-esque of the Bonnes-Mares. Great length but it needs some serious cellaring. Enormous…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the estate made 34 hectoliters per hectare as its vines in Bonnes-Mares escaped frost damage): Healthy medium red. Powerfully aromatic nose combines a sexy medicinal note with an inviting musky, fleshy quality that I did not find in any other of the estate’s ’16s. Robust, chewy and deep on the palate, offering mouthfilling flavors of…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Figeac is super-expressive. Dense and fleshy in the glass – yet with gorgeous aromatic lift – the 2012 is impeccable in its overall balance. Dark red plum, cherry pit, cloves, leather, sage and licorice are all laced into the inviting finish. Within the context of the year, the Figeac has a fair amount…