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2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux is one of the wilder wines in this range. My sense is that a racking is probably in order here. There is plenty of intensity and persistence in the dark fruit, but the aromatics lack their customary focus, while the overall impression is of a wine that is not yet…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Good bright red. Red berries, coffee, mocha, game and sweet oak on the nose. Dense and oaky, showing a serious tannic structure and excellent density but a bit less fruit sweetness than the old-vines village wine. Just this side of heavy. The crop level here was healthy in 2012, noted Serafin.

Spotlight on Rosso di Montalcino (Oct 2019)

Baricci’s 2017 Rosso di Montalcino is a gorgeous wine that balances the natural richness of the year with the translucent energy and mid-weight structure that is so typical of the northern side of Montalcino. Bright, floral and nuanced, the 2017 offers plenty of near and medium-term appeal. Kirsch, hard candy, sweet spice and floral notes…

Best New Wines from Spain (Sep 2011)

Vivid ruby. Sexy aromas of redcurrant, cherry-vanilla, pipe tobacco and dried flowers. Fresh, spicy, impressively delineated red fruit flavors show very good depth, with the tobacco and vanilla elements carrying through in the mouth. Elegantly styled Rioja, finishing with a fine dusting of tannins and excellent spice-driven persistence. Shows more vivacity than the powerful 2004…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Medium red. Musky aromas of chocolate and mint, with a slightly leafy quality. Sweet but reticent, showing a fine-grained texture but rather medicinal, bound-up flavors. Finishes with a substantial dusting of tannins. The most Barolo-like of these 2007s and in need of patience.

Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

The Clos des Ducs Lutte Raisonnée, made from vines that were treated with phytosanitary products against oidium and mildew in spring: Aromas of strawberry, rose petal, smoke, leather and earth became increasingly perfumed with air. Intensely flavored and fresh; not especially fleshy but really stands out for its inner-mouth perfumed lift and dominant strawberry and…