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Cellar Favorite: Bollinger: 2022 New Releases (Mar 2022)

The 2014 La Grande Année is stunning. In fact, it is one of the best recent editions I can remember tasting. What comes through most is the wine’s sizzling energy and tension, qualities that aren’t often associated with Bollinger, where the Champagnes tend to show more breadth and volume. In 2014, readers will find a…

Vinous Table: Private Dinner at Wheeler Farms, Saint Helena, CA (Feb 2023)

Bollinger’s 2014 La Grande Année is a great way to start the evening as guests mill around Wheeler Farms. It is early evening in Napa, but there is still plenty of action in the winery, where various lots are being pressed under the watchful eye of winemaker Nigel Kinsman. There are some moments where I…

All Change: New Zealand Reds (Apr 2023)

The 2020 Pinot Noir is a mouthful, combining ripeness and fruit concentration with the cool climate tension of the Waipara Valley. It is currently a baby, all young fruit, smoky bacon-like characters and dried herbs from a portion of whole clusters in the ferment giving it savory, gusty richness. There’s plenty of fruit weight here…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2007 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart is positively stellar. Elegant, polished and sophisticated, the 2007 dazzles with effusive aromatics and gorgeous balance. It”s not an obvious wine, though, but rather a Champagne built for long, patient cellaring. The 2007 is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay taken from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Ambonnay, Verzenay and Verzy for…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Margaux is an infant. Today, the tannins are unusually searing, but then again, the 2018 is a wine in which all the elements are dialed up to the maximum. Time in the glass releases the fruit, revealing a luxurious, opulent Château Margaux built for the cellar. Cedar, tobacco, dried flowers and mint develop…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Château Margaux was observed over a period of 24 hours. I used the word "luxurious" to describe the nose when I encountered this First Growth from barrel, and it’s still apt to use now the wine is in bottle. It just blossoms over time, revealing gorgeous blackberry, raspberry, crushed violet and peony, and…