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2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Screaming Eagle remains a very young wine. Dark, brooding and quite potent, the 2013 possesses tremendous depth backed by equally serious tannins. Blackberry, graphite, lavender, mocha and dried herbs are some of the many nuances that gradually open in the glass. In most years, Screaming Eagle has a Lafite-like purity of fruit. The…

Vinous Table: Ristorante Osteria Carletti, Bedano, Switzerland (Mar 2018)

Taittinger’s 2002 Comtes de Champagne is a great way to kick things off. Rich, radiant and lush, with all of the exotic ripeness of the year in evidence, the 2002 Comtes delivers the goods. This bottle is perhaps a bit more forward than others have been, but it is nevertheless very fine.

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2012)

(L2117UB00400): Light, bright gold. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes lemon curd, pear skin, iodine, honeysuckle and toasty lees, with notes of ginger and honey emerging with air. Strikes an impressive balance of power and restraint, opening slowly to offer vibrant citrus and orchard fruit flavors, along with intense floral and spice nuances. Clings with…

Vinous Table: Noizé, London, United Kingdom (Aug 2020)

We started with a sensational 2002 Taittinger Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne. My word, this is exquisite, representing everything I adore in champagne. Limpid gold in hue, it has a compelling bouquet of walnut, smoke, dried honey and shucked oyster shells that I found utterly entrancing. The palate does not disappoint, displaying an irresistible…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Cheval Blanc is sublime on the nose with red fruit, sandalwood, touches of tobacco and dried flowers. The oak is seamlessly integrated and very well focused. The palate is fine-boned, fresh and tensile, with a keen line of acidity, real depth and insistent grip suggesting that this will age with panache. Serious and…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Cheval Blanc has an intriguing bouquet, one you have to really just sit and ponder for a couple of minutes, and I don't mean that in a negative way. It seems mercurial in the glass, especially when compared directly with the hedonistic 2015 Pavie. Scents of red berries, pencil shavings, cedar and light…