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Marquis d’Angerville: Volnay Clos des Ducs 1920-2010 (Dec 2016)

Harvested 5-8th September. A very accessible Ducs. Much lighter and less dense than the 2010 or 2009, but also much more approachable. Guillaume d’Angerville calls it “tender.” I call it useful – a wine to drink while waiting for the ‘05 and the ‘99 to come around. The Ducs minerality is here, along with enough…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good deep, bright red. Very reduced nose is currently blocking the wine’s primary fruits. Fatter but initially less sweet than the Clos de Vouget, with a bit of leathery funk to its dark berry, earth and iodine flavors. Began quite unforthcoming if rather suave, but gained significantly in sweetness and thickness with aeration. This will…

The Best New Wines from Spain (Nov 2001)

Full medium ruby. Sexy, high-pitched aromas of cassis, plum, violet, minerals and clove oil. Wonderfully sweet and lush but with superb grip and vinosity, thanks to ripe, harmonious acidity. Already shows explosive inner-mouth flavors of dark berries, minerals and bitter chocolate. Finishes with superb length and sweetness. Sure to be the best vintage for Pingus…

1997 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2002)

Intense garnet with ruby reflections. Opens with wonderfully sweet tobacco scents and spicy cedar. In the mouth there are nicely delineated, fresh flavors of anise, mocha and roasted coffee, the whole supported by very soft tannins, and the rather smoky close conveying an essence of raspberry. Although there are no hard edges in this sleek…

Castello dei Rampolla: Sammarco 1981-2011 (Oct 2015)

The 1997 Sammarco is starting to show the early signs of oxidation in its bouquet, which suggests it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. There is plenty of depth, but probably also limited potential from here on out. Like the 1998, the 1997 is giving all it has right now, and will continue to…

Daniel Thomases on Tuscany (Jul 2000)

Dark ruby. Cassis and a light herbaceousness on the nose; nicely expansive aromas but less sweet than usual for this wine. Blackcurrant fruit betrays a slight greenness; seems less ripe than, and distinctly inferior to, the excellent 1996. Finishes full and long on the palate, still tannic and slightly rough in texture.