Archives: Product Reviews

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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Château Margaux is a First Growth that I had not tasted for several years. According to the estate, it finally began to open during the pandemic. I remember this was stellar in its flush of youth, and earned a three-figure score from the Southwold blind tasting way back in 2009. Now at two…

Alsace: The 2016s & Late-Released 2015s (Apr 2018)

Luminous straw. Penetrating nuances of lime and guava join the lemon verbena, jasmine, mineral and white stone fruit aromas on the knockout, captivating nose. Then dense, complex and multilayered, offering profound flavors of fresh citrus fruit, sweet spices and talcum powder. Closes extremely long, clean and precise; this is a young white wine of utterly…

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

The 2017 L’Apparita, Ama’s 100% Merlot, is silky, polished and exceptionally beautiful. In 2017, L’Apparita is restrained and elegant more than it is powerful. I have seen L’Apparita blossom with a few years in bottle. I imagine it will be the case here too. Today, L’Apparita is decidedly nuanced and elegant.

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 La Conseillante is a pretty wine, but it is also a bit light in the context of the vintage. Sweet floral notes, exotic spice and bright red-toned fruit are nicely pushed forward. As always, La Conseillante is one of the most delicate and elegant of Pomerols. Still, tasting the 2014 and 2013 side…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 La Conseillante has a wonderful bouquet with wild strawberry, cranberry, wilted rose petal, salted licorice and violet-like aromas. As I wrote previously, it gains intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins and a keen line of acidity, the new oak now entirely subsumed with a precise and reasonably persistent…

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Beychevelle seems to have calmed down on the nose in recent months, far more even-tempered with still gorgeous pure red berry fruit laced with pomegranate and espresso. But now I find more Saint-Julien in my glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins. This feels very cohesive, poised and delineated with a seductive,…