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The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

(racked ten days before my visit): Bright medium red. The nose suggests an almost syrupy red-fruit ripeness plus a hint of licorice; comes across as less pristine than the Gruenchers. Then fat, rich and pliant in the mouth, with a flavor of medicinal cherry given shape by an edge of acidity. Today the tannins come…

Steenwold! South Africa: Ten Years On (Jul 2025)

The 2015 Chardonnay Ava Marie has an attractive and quite resinous bouquet, honeysuckle permeating the citrus fruit, lime and apple blossom. The palate is fresh and vibrant, beautifully balanced, lime once again mixed with melon and light guava notes. Yet this is certainly no tropical Chardonnay because the acidity keeps this on its tiptoes, precise…

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2017 Chardonnay Ava Marie has a fragrant bouquet with touches of lemon rind, peach skin and an oily scent that is quite potent and attractive. The palate is vibrant on the entry with a tang of orange rind and marmalade, very intense with touches of mint and sage. It fans out nicely on the…

2019 Burgundy – Further Additions (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has the most backward nose of the domaine’s Premier Cru. Les Caillerets demands the most coaxing, opening almost reluctantly with crushed rock, pressed yellow flowers and lemon verbena scents. The palate is taut and linear, very fresh and focused. The propitious terroir really shows though here, with a…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Excellent ruby color for the vintage. Roasted currants, black plum and spicy oak on the nose. Supple and silky in the mouth, with a youthful cassis flavor and pliant texture. Still, this can’t quite match the ’98 or ’99 for sweetness and depth of flavor. Finishes with a slight dry edge and a cedary nuance.

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a very perfumed sensual bouquet with pure red berry fruit, roses and light sous-bois scents that unfold temptingly with aeration. The palate has lighter tannins but feels fresh and tensile. There is some reduction, especially on the blood orange-infused finish, though its refreshing quality is to be…