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Loire Chenin Blanc: Chaume the Way (Jul 2024)

The 1997 Coteaux du Layon is perfectly balanced, sweet but not unctuous with lovely finesse and roundness. There is excellent concentration of fruit as orange and peach mingle with subtle toasted notes, which indicate that it is starting to develop. Still, it remains surprisingly youthful, with freshness, length and delicious clarity.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Rieussec has a petrolly nose with quince, fig and Clementine scents that blossom in the glass. Good intensity. The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening and fine grip, very pure in style, with fig, dates and peach towards the harmonious finish. Lovely. Tasted at the 2005 Sauternes horizontal held at Château…

Champagne: The 2026 Spring Preview

The 2005 Cristal Rosé is in great shape. A fabulous wine, the Rosé offers an exotic mix of kirsch, blood orange, cranberry, white flowers, tangerine oil and spice. It offers a fabulous juxtaposition of energy and concentration, translucence and power, with the complexity of a Champagne that is entering its third decade of life. This…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Explosive aromas of plum liqueur, currant, minerals and lead pencil. Huge, lush, sweet and utterly seamless; this has the palate-caressing texture of liquid velvet. About as deep as this extreme vintage gets. Finishes with noble, compellingly sweet tannins and great length. This is amazing wine, and only its exotic character prevented me from giving…

Keeping Everyone Happy: Southwold Bordeaux 2022

The 2022 Batailley has quite a powerful bouquet with slightly blowsy black fruit, just a bit of alcohol here and the oak quite pronounced. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins and is actually much fresher and more complex than the aromatics, particularly on the finish. It just lacks a bit of sustain on the…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru has evidence of TCA on the nose that obscures the terroir and renders it a little monochromatic. The palate is balanced, with a keen line of acidity, solid structure and notable salinity, cohering nicely toward the close so that it at least finishes at its high point. But, I’m left…