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2018 Brunello di Montalcino: The Rubik’s Cube Vintage (Dec 2022)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Phenomena is dusty and perfumed, wafting up with a pretty blend of lavender, autumnal spice and steeped plums. This splashes across the palate, with ripe red and black fruits complemented by balsam herbs and a saline core of minerality that adds a more tactile feel toward the close. The…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Highly aromatic nose of raspberry, redcurrant, graphite, licorice and cedar. Leanish, dry and classic, with firm acidity but less flesh than the ’96. Lovely traditionally made claret, with terrific finesse and grip. Still evolving. (A second bottle showed a somewhat leathery nose and came across as drier in the middle palate; it was not…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Léoville Barton has a slightly feral nose compared to its peers, probably due to some Brettanomyces, leaning towards Rhône in style, with hints of coffee granules that, frankly, are a bit off-putting. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly crunchy texture, plenty of black fruit intermixed with cedar and tobacco, showing some dryness…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Vivid red. Ripe cherry and dark berries on the nose, with hints of pipe tobacco and licorice. Pungent berry skin and bitter cherry flavors are joined by smoky minerals as the wine opens in the glass. For a rich wine this is showing very good vivacity and focus, and the finish is long and sappy….

Dom Ruinart at Cru, New York (Oct 2008)

The 1990 Dom Ruinart (original release) was also pretty, although it revealed a slightly flabby and unfocused personality compared to the more vibrant wines of the night.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold color. Textbook Bollinger aromas of toast, lees and buttered toast, along with suggestions of fresh mushroom and white truffle. This is really about earthy tones, not fruit. Thick and fat to the point of being oily in texture, with deeply pitched sweet cream and butter tones and a slow-to-unfold singed pineapple flavor. For…