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2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is…

Vinous Table: Tuscan Dinner @ 67 Pall Mall, London, UK (May 2023)

The 1988 Sassicaia is a vintage that I have not tasted for many moons. It is sublime, albeit not one for those seeking the horsepower of the 1985. Showing little maturity in color, it has a divine bouquet, classically styled, almost Médoc-like with dark berry fruit, wild strawberry, cedar and a splash of espresso. Say…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright medium red, a bit less deep than the preceding wines. Sexy leesy wildness to the aromas of black raspberry, blackcurrant and minerals. At once sweet and savory, showing excellent chewy depth for the 2015 vintage, and an impression of concentration that belies the yield of 48 hectoliters per hectare. In a distinctly black fruit…

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)

The 2014 La Romanée is a wine of almost raw intensity that is going to need a good 15+ years in bottle before it is at the very early part of its maturity. A huge core of primary fruit announces the 2014, a wine that is likely to thrill those lucky enough to own it…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Dark red, not ruby. Great meaty complexity to the vibrant aromas of raspberry, mocha, spices and chocolate. Sappy, smooth, wonderfully vinous and deep, displaying strong saline minerality and great class. This shows a similar style to the Reignots but here the wine’s fruit is farther in the background. This will eventually make a great bottle…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2015 Figeac is a step up from the 2014 with exquisite scents of red berry fruit, incense, rose petal and crush stone. Pixelated with wonderful precision. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, wonderful backbone allied with a sense of symmetry. It is more saline than previous vintages, with saliva flowing after the wine…