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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Penetrating, highly perfumed aromas of sappy dark berries, violet and minerals; seems less oaky today than the ’01. Offers compelling mouthfilling concentration and perfume. A wine of great power and consistency, with a pungent minerality lingering on the palate-staining finish. This somehow doesn’t flag or grow narrower even after one swallows or spits….

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Latour has a slightly more powerful nose than the Lafite-Rothschild, with hints of black olive, sage and sous-bois infusing the black fruit. But it doesn’t fully reach the complexity of the best vintages of Latour. The palate has a wonderful backbone and grip, with hints of cooked meat. It sedately shimmies into its…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(from the upper section of the cru): Bright, pale yellow. Fresh pineapple and crushed rock dominate the nose. Fat and rich on entry, with the exotic pineapple note repeating, then tactile and dusty on the back half, with the strong underlying stony quality giving the wine a slightly rigid character. This very young, rather broad-shouldered…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pétrus, matured in 50% new oak, was assessed over a period of 24 hours. It has a magnificent nose, replete with intense black currant, crushed violet and vanilla-y scents, the latter becoming subsumed with modest aeration. These aromas are chiseled to the nth degree and as harmonious as the Everly Brothers. The palate…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Petrus is every bit as grand as I thought it could be. A wine with no start and no end, the 2018 envelops all the senses from the very first taste. It is at times intellectual, while in other moments more hedonistic, but it is always a total turn-on. Silky and layered, with…

New Releases from Chile (Mar 2010)

Inky ruby. Powerful, strongly perfumed aromas of cherry-cola, cassis, pipe tobacco and oak spices. Offers sweet red and dark berry preserve flavors and building smokiness. Lush and creamy in texture but with good mineral spine and velvety supporting tannins. Manages to be both rich and lively, finishing with excellent clarity and smoky, spicy persistence.